Wednesday, May 26, 2010

Anarchy in Athens


As time has gone on I have apparently gotten worse and worse about updating this blog, but thats because I've been living my life rather than writing about it. I took a long weekend in Athens a few days ago. Negotiating the vacation was a bit rocky, but it turned out for the best. Met up with some friends who flew in from Edinburgh and thankfully did not get stranded by the ash cloud. Metro was on strike when I got there. Split a cab with two Brits to the city center to cut costs. I always feel like I have to entertain when I carpool.

Got to the hostel. Met up with Courtney and Lilly. I had been complaining about how much we were paying for the hostel till I got there. 6th story suite with a kitchenette, 2 showers, 2 bathrooms and a huge balcony looking out over the whole city and the Acropolis. Checked into the room, got a gyro #1 (with PORK! OMG PORK!) so delicious. Beginning of the culinary adventure of "What came first, the Greek dish or the Turkish dish?" (answer: they all have Ottoman origins so leave nationalism out of my dinner). As a side note, there is no difference between the "Greek" Yogurt Kebab and Iskender Kebap.
It's just Iskender. Also, why do the Greeks translate börek as "cheese pie" and "spinach pie"? They're totally missing the potato variation, but that's beside the point. Greek simit (circular sesame bread) is actually a little bit better than the Turkish simit. The Greek version is softer and doesn't have the hard, crunchy pretzel texture that Turkish simit does. Anyway, I greatly enjoyed Greek food and liked confusing people by using the Turkish names (I don't know any of the Greek names besides gyro and tzatziki, also known as döner and cacık.)

Wandered around town, went to what we thought was just a park but was actually where the ancient Greeks thought the Muses lived. Saw the "Prison of Socrates." Took goofy pictures in front of the Acropolis. Wandered back down the hill a few hours later. Got some dinner. Picked up some wine. Sat on our balcony chatting and looking out at the Acropolis in a huge thunderstorm.

Day 2 we went to the Acropolis. I had left the balcony door open to let in fresh air during the night but sincerely regretted that when the church bells started up in the morning. I really forgot how annoying they are. At least the call to prayer is only 5 times a day and beautifully sung rather than bells going off every hour (and half hour in some cases). Acropolis was swarming with people but cool nonetheless. Unfortunately large parts of it are being repaired at the moment. Took the sort of the rocky/adventurous route down. Rewarded ourselves with some ice cream (it was at this point that I realized I missed Turkish dondurma).

Took the metro over to another part of town, went to the Archaeological Museum. I got to play tour guide in the pre-historic section b/c I've been studying the Grave Circles and Mycenaeans this semester. Pretty cool stuff. Exhausted. Went home, showered, passed out for a few hours.
Got up in time for dinner and meeting up with Demi, Lilly's friend from Athens. Thankfully I had a cup of coffee between dinner and going out because it turned out to be a pretty late night. Demi took us to some bars around Monastiraki where we were staying for a night of Greek drinks.

Drink #1: I can't recall the name, but it's a hot liquor with a slice of lemon and a cinnamon stick floating in it. Goes down smooth. Drink it from shot glass sized glasses shaped like mini-beer mugs. Learned the Greek toasting. Clink glasses, touch your glass to the table to honor the dead, then drink.

While we were sitting at this outdoor bar, a fireblower came by. He wasn't looking for tips. He was just really wanted to blow giant fireballs in the middle of the street. Talked to him later. Apparently he's Welsh. Us four girls discussed our strategy/plan for the night. Demi wanted to show us the anarchist quarter, which sounded interesting, so we finished our drinks and followed her past Omonia to the region where cops stand guard but seldom enter.

Demi works at a Cretan bar in the anarchist quarter so we went over there for a while. By a while I mean that it was probably several hours. Bars in Athens are kind of like most bars in Istanbul. There's a bar, but most people are sitting at tables outside in the street. I like it that way. Its really chill. Her boss treated us to raki (which tastes nothing like Turkish rakı), snails in hot olive oil and rosemary, and a few other Cretan drinks and dishes. All of them were delicious. Especially the snails. After a few rounds, Demi said it was late enough to go over to the club so we followed her over to a rock bar that's apparently well known in Athens. Had a lot of fun, did a lot of dancing, etc. None of us realized how late it was until we finally decided to leave and the sun was already up. Oops. Went back to the hostel. Slept till noon.

Our last full day in Athens was supposed to be a beach day from 9am-sunset. Needless to say, that didn't happen. It was around 3pm by the time we finally got to the beach (waking up, showering, eating a gyro and finding the bus to the beach really does take that long). I am pretty sure we got off the bus too early b/c the beaches were gross. Like worse than Galveston gross. Garbage everywhere. Broken glass. It was overcast. We tried to go further down taking the tram only to find out that it turned away from the coast about a block after we got on so we had to get off and walk back to the dirty beach. Guys were walking by trying to sell us stuff while we were tanning. The whole misadventure was pretty funny tho. On our way home we were talking about dinner. Decided that seafood was in order. I spotted a taverna near our hostel while we were trinket shopping. Went back there for an amazing meal: tzatziki, bread, fried zucchini balls (breaded mixture of cheese and zucchini), swordfish, veggies.


We had picked up wine, cheese and chocolate on our way back from the beach. Decided to make an evening of that on the balcony. Delicious. Also had some fresh fruit left over from the day before when we bought 1.2 kilos of strawberries and cherries. Mmmmm.
Sunday was our last day in Athens. Got up early to clean up the room, pack, and check out of the hostel. Grabbed some coffee and a börek (or cheese pie if you like that name better). Went for a wandering walk trying to find the anarchist quarter again because I wanted to check out what the graffiti looked like there in daylight.


Came back around noon, took the metro to the airport, waited around for a few hours doing schoolwork before my flight and then headed back to Istanbul. In all it was really a perfect weekend.

1 comment:

  1. Glad you are having fun, Katherine. Good luck on your finals. Love, Nana

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